The Christmas Tree Illuminates for the First Time After the Start of the Conflict

For two years during the conflict in Gaza, every festive public event for Christmas were called off in Bethlehem in the occupied West Bank. This city is where the faithful hold the birth of Jesus occurred.

But, after a recent truce, this sacred city determined that now celebrations would make a comeback, as symbolised by the illumination of its traditional, large holiday tree before the ancient Church of the Nativity.

"We have endured two difficult years without celebration; no holiday, no employment, no income," states Bethlehem Mayor Maher Canawati. "Our community survives from tourism and tourism had fallen to zero."

He accepts that the decision of resuming celebrations faced some controversy, given the ongoing hardship in Gaza – which affects those in its small Christian population, many of whom have relatives in Bethlehem.

"Certain voices argue it is unsuitable and others say it's appropriate," the mayor notes. "However, in my heart, I felt this constituted the correct action to take since Christmas must never be halted or abandoned. This represents a beacon of hope for us."

A Spark of Festivity Reappears

Locals – both Christians and Muslims – pose for selfies in front of the tree decorated with gold and red ornaments in Manger Square. They are accompanied by a small number of foreign tourists.

Vibrant lights now decorate city streets and there are signs advertising Christmas bazaars and festive events for children.

"We are delighted to have the tree, first of all, and to welcome visitors to Bethlehem and to be able to observe the holiday in its true spirit," says local jewellery designer Nadya Hazboun.

"This is where it all started, therefore here is where we can convey a message to the world of what Christmas truly should be about. And this year, if Christmas is peaceful, then I hope it will deliver a nice message for the entire world."

Economic Hopes and Difficulties

The neighbouring towns of Beit Jala and Beit Sahour are also planning to illuminate Christmas trees soon. Hotels – which have stood mostly vacant for two years – have an influx of bookings from Palestinian citizens of Israel as well as certain international tourists.

One tourist from Russia, Angelica, is making her second pilgrimage to the Holy Land. "I think everyone needs to come at least once in their life," she says.

"I hope a lot of people will soon come back as it is sorrowful without many tourists. The sole aspect that's good is there are no lengthy queues – you can come and see more things. On my prior visit it was necessary to wait in a queue for a few hours minimum."

For now, the gift shops scattered throughout the city have little business, and near the cream-coloured walls of the Church of the Nativity, which originate from the Fourth Century, tour guides largely stand idle. Before the Gaza war, it was typically packed with visitors.

"This is a city for tourists; without tourism there is no livelihood," expresses a guide named Hamza. "We aspire to have people coming back as in the past: from European nations, the Middle Eastern region, America, Latin American and everywhere. We start with lighting the tree, and then we will wait."

The Persistent Economic Toll

In the past two years, unemployment has skyrocketed within Bethlehem. Following the deadly Hamas-led attacks on southern Israel during October 2023 which triggered the conflict, many thousands of Palestinian labourers from the West Bank region have been prevented from entering Israel and Israeli settlements to work.

At the same time, government employees have been paid only partial salaries from the Palestinian Authority (PA) – that administers parts of the West Bank. The Authority depends on tax income collected by Israel, which it is currently holding – to the tune of $1.76 billion, according to a UN agency.

Israel says they are retaining the funds due to the fact that the Authority provides financial payments to incarcerated Palestinians that encourage attacks on Israelis. The PA – which has been under global pressure to enact reforms – claims it has recently changed its welfare system.

A Modest Holiday

The bleak economic situation implies that for many Christian Palestinians, despite the fact that there are now public events as well as religious services, it will constitute a subdued holiday season.

On the periphery of the square, some patrons wait to purchase sizzling balls of falafel from a row of shops.

"We are getting ready for Christmas following one of our hardest periods as Palestinians and as a Christian community," says one restaurant owner, an owner of a restaurant called Afteem, a long-established family restaurant that has witnessed its revenues collapse. He says that recently numerous families could not even afford falafel – a cheap, traditional snack.

"The faithful will attempt to mark the occasion but based on their circumstances," Mr Salameh expects. "An individual wishing to take his kids to a festival or the theatre or similar, they lack the money to spend for this celebration."

Hopes for Peace and Prosperity

In the cave-like grotto beneath the Nativity Church, a local woman accompanies a tour group from India, stooping down by a silver star which marks the location where tradition states Jesus was born and lighting a light nearby.

Amid ongoing high tensions across the region, Bethlehem residents say they are praying for peace – and wishing for visitors to return to the location which is thought to be Christmas began.